After a busy few weeks it has been time to update the old
blog. It’s been a busy few weeks with lots of work with some play jammed in
in-between. Here is the low down of what I’ve been up to:
Emerald gully on Ben Dearg – I climbed this a few weeks back
with a good friend of ours, John McLeod Britain’s manliest man, and Tony. We were
off to climb penguin gully but the slopes looked loaded and it is really far
away! This was a great cold climbs tick and
the main pitch was ace, totally fat! However the next pitch was a bit thin and
when tony set off half the pitch came off, I didn’t fancy it so off john
popped, giving it the McLeod shuffle and sending it!
Smoking the white owl on Aonach Mor – this was James’ first
winter route and what a cracker it was; we didn’t even leave the house until
midday! I have wanted to do this route for a while and was curious about
whether it was III 4 or IV 5, probably IV 5 taking the last pitch quite direct!
Super conditions although the gondola was winded off!!
No 6 gully on Aonach Dubh – some friends of ours, Craig and
Marie, were down from Aberdeen and were keen to do a bit of climbing, it is an
excellent climb and another cold climbs classic, it was also Craig’s first lead
on ice, what a dude!!!
Left twin – I climbed this, again with Craig and Marie and
it is well worth the three stars it gets, with that 60m ice pitch at the end
being very full value! Although I am not sure I would like to be up there with
this sun melting everything as it is!!!
Italian climb – last week I had an awesome day out on the
Ben with Scott Kirkhope, this wasn’t our first option or even our second but we
opted for something in the shade that neither of us had done before. Scott was
happy for me to lead the meaty pitch and I was keen. As I started leading the
pitch I noticed the ice was solid, and I do mean solid!!!! As I looked up I
began to wonder if this was bit of a mental pitch but it turned out was a lot
nicer than it looked and one of the nicest pitches of ice I have climbed. We shared this route with two climbers from
Bingley of all places, called Scott and Ian who were nice enough to invite us
back to the CIC for a wee cup of tea. They have had a good week and climbed
Orion face direct and zero gully, reporting, as expected awesome conditions,
even if the crux on Orion is a little thin. Check out the wee video I put
together below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUz_nmX1vh0