Magic day on The Wand

Yesterday we got out on Creag Meagaidh with the idea of climbing Smith’s route, a cold climbs classic that rarely comes into condition.

At 4.30 am I heard Will wander back into the flat after going to the opening night at the fort William mountain film festival (I am assured he got some sleep), knowing we were getting picked up by John Macleod (Britain’s manliest man) at 5.30 it was time to get a wiggle on and eat my coffee and drink my porridge. After stopping at Spean Bridge to pick Sam up we fired on through to go climbing!

 As we walked into the corrie I knew it was going to be a good day with such an amazing sunrise, it was a nice easy walk in with just fell shoes on as the path is bare up till the Lochan. As we rounded into view of the corrie we could just see a team starting on Smiths route, gutted!!! I had seen a picture of a route called the wand earlier this winter and recalled a spectacular ice coated corner, so we opted for that in the hope we would get on it before the masses rushed into the corrie. We parted ways with Sam and John (who climbed north post direct in great condition) and headed round towards the Wand. As we rounded the corner we saw three teams on the Pumpkin, no thanks, but the wand was still free!

Conditions were great with super sticky ice and massive ice umbrellas, and great screws. Take a look! We were back at the car by about 3.30 and what a magic day it was!!!!